Japan’s Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Trail with Kiera

Our journey starts in Osaka, where we will use Japan’s amazing public transport to reach our accommodation. Check-in is available from 3pm onward, and the hotel offers a relaxing retreat with western-style rooms, featuring a top-floor hot spring (Onsen). We’ll have a welcome briefing meeting, where host Kiera will introduce you to the magical Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail that you are about to embark upon.

In the evening, take a leisurely stroll to the vibrant Doton Bori area, immersing yourself in the bright lights, energetic atmosphere, and bustling pedestrian lanes. Explore the famous street food scene, indulging in the diverse culinary delights that make Doton Bori a renowned food haven.

Meals Included: None

On day 2, begin your journey by checking out of the hotel and walking to Namba train station (15mins). We will take the subway from Namba to Shin Osaka and board the train departing from Tennoji at 9:01. Your destination is Kii-Tanabe.

Upon arrival at Kii-Tanabe, head to the Tanabe Tourism office for updates on track closures or detours. We will purchase a bus ticket and obtain pilgrim passports for Kumano stamps. Catch the bus from Kii-Tanabe to Takajiri Oji, departing at 12:50 and arriving at 13:15. Start your approximately 4km uphill, short but challenging walk to the ridge-top settlement of Takahara, where you’ll find our accommodation offering western-style rooms with a Japanese focus.

The trail today is rocky and root-covered terrain, so maintain a slow and easy pace. We will experience beautiful views to the left over the valley and our first taste of the pilgrimage trail. 

Meals Included: Breakfast and Dinner

On day 3, we’ll have a picturesque 13 km forest walk from Takahara to Chikatsuyu. The morning will start with an optional warm up stretch, breath and mini yoga flow led by Kiera.

The trail winds through the lush forested mountains east of Takahara, taking you up and over scenic ridges into the next watershed before descending into the charming village of Chikatsuyu. This is our first real sense of walking through the distinctive Japanese forest canopy on the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. On our way to the village we will pass by small shrines and over a river into town.

Unwind and immerse yourself in the peaceful surroundings, before settling in to our Japanese-style accommodation.

Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner

The morning will start with an optional warm up stretch, breath and mini yoga flow led by Kiera, followed by a delicious homemade breakfast. Today we set off on a challenging 24km full-day walk from Chikatsuyu to Minshuku Takiyoshi, a family-run Japanese guest house. This trail involves numerous climbs and descents, leading you to the revered Kumano Hongu Taisha, a picturesque temple nestled along the pilgrimage route.

Arrive in time to explore the temple and its scenic grounds before taking a bus (from the bottom of the steps to the temple) to the onsen village of Yunomine Onsen. Hongu Taisha is one of three main temple shrines of the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage.

The mid-section of the trail features a permanent detour over the pass, offering diverse forested trails and captivating settlement scenery from Hosshinmon-oji to Hongu. Upon reaching our accommodation, a warm and welcoming Japanese guest house, check in and settle into your Japanese-style rooms.

Take the opportunity to explore the charming village, boil eggs in the public hot spring, and perhaps book a visit to the public onsen in the heart of the village. Our guesthouse will have an onsen available for you too.

Meals Included: Breakfast, Dinner

On Day 5, the morning will start with an optional warm up stretch, breath and mini yoga flow led by Kiera and then after a delicious and large breakfast, begin your journey by taking a bus from Yunomine Onsen to the starting point of the walk at 08:30am. Walk approximately 13km to Koguchi, reaching the end of the bridge where you can find vending machines offering cold drinks or hot coffee.

The Kogumotori-goe trail traverses a mountain range between Hongu and Koguchi, offering varying terrains. The northern section involves a gradual climbing gradient, followed by ups and downs in the mid-section, and concludes with the steepest descent in the southern part.

For accommodation, we will enjoy the night at a hot spring resort that provides western-style rooms, or a similar guesthouse (subject to change depending on availability). 

Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner

The morning will start with an optional warm up stretch, breath and mini yoga flow led by Kiera. Day 6 presents a 14km trek from Koguchi to Nachi-Shingu, this part of the pilgrimage is renowned as one of the most challenging sections but also one of the favourite parts of the whole pilgrimage for many pilgrims. There is a fair bit of elevation but the views over the Pacific and the glimpses of the mountains as you traverse through the forest make it all worth it.

The Ogumotori-goe trail connects Koguchi to Kumano Nachi Taisha, home to the divine Nachi-no-Otaki, Japan’s tallest waterfall and travelled by thousands of pilgrims. The panoramic scene of the superb orange Seiganto-ji Temple against the backdrop of the most sacred Nachi waterfall, the tallest in Japan, is certainly one of Japan’s most beautiful views.

If the trail’s difficulty feels overwhelming, there is an option to take public transport to Shingu and then proceed to the shrine grounds to meet the group later.

For accommodation, today we have a cozy Japanese-style retreat for the night and an included dinner to celebrate our pilgrimage journey together.

Meals Included: Breakfast, Packed Lunch, Dinner

Today we will have a delicious breakfast at our guesthouse before starting off on our journey from Nachi to Koyasan. After breakfast we will take a bus to Kii Katsuura Station and then onwards by train to Wakayama Station. From here we will take a private line to Gokurakubashi station and a cable car to Koyasan (the private line and return cable car is bought via the Koyasan Heritage Pass).

Today we travel by public transport for 5-6 hours so sit back, enjoy the scenery and take it all in while you process the last 5 days walking.

After reaching Koyasan we will check in to our temple lodging at the monastery and be briefed with the itinerary which includes witnessing a ceremony led by the monks. Depending on how the group feels, we can have free time to explore Koyasan village, which is quite a popular place with tourists or we can explore the trails around Koyasan.

Our rooms will be simple Japanese style rooms and our meal for the evening will be traditional Buddhist cuisine. It is what the monks would eat and it is called “shojin ryori”, completely vegan and it typically includes rice, miso soup, tempura, hot pot, vegetables, tofu and fruit. 

Meals Included: Breakfast, Dinner

After your last traditional Japanese breakfast we will have a group meeting before saying farewell and closing our amazing trip. If you wish to hang around Koyasan there is optional walks to explore like the Women’s pilgrimage otherwise if you wish to continue your trip around Japan there are many great places to see like Nara or Kyoto, or if you would like more off the beaten path places I suggest Yuasa or Hidaka which haven’t changed much for hundreds of years.

Your Koyasan World Heritage pass will include a return on the cable car back to Gokurakubashi station where you can catch a train onwards to Osaka airport or other destinations.

Meals Included: Breakfast